The Sign of a Well-Made Custom Suit: Full Canvas Construction
The number-one trait of a top-notch custom or off-the-rack suit is a full canvas construction. Though not always obvious at first glance, the full canvas underpinning gives a suit its signature shape, drape, and custom fit.
When it comes to buying a quality suit, always insist that it be made with the full canvas technique. This process of suit making is a signature trait of top British (e.g., Savile Row) and Italian tailors. We committed to full canvas construction when we began making our custom suits here in Los Angeles.
A Truly Custom Suit
Only a suit made with a full canvas can achieve a truly custom fit. A properly made custom suit using full canvas goes far beyond perfect measurements to work its magic. The full floating canvas, lightly sewn inside the jacket between the lining and the outer fabric, is a semi-rigid blend of horse hair, goat hair, and linen. This canvas, cut to the measurements of the client, is integral to the drape of the suit because it has a unique feature: shape memory. As the suit is worn, the stiff canvas breaks down and begins to mold to its wearer. It “learns” about its wearer’s movements and posture and breaks in to conform to his body. Full canvas custom suits transcend a custom-measured fit; they actually become second skins unique to their owner.
Build the Suit to Fit
A well-made full canvas suit can vary in its details: depending on the look you want, different methods exist for cutting, padding, and sewing the canvas. For example, a lightly padded traditional British-cut suit will feel and look very different from a generously padded and structured northern Italian–cut suit. The canvas, and its padding, contribute hugely to a suit’s feel and look.
It’s not easy to find a bespoke suit maker that understands how to craft a full canvas suit. Very few Los Angeles custom suit tailors even know what a full canvas suit is, much less know how to create one properly for a particular suit cut. At Requisite, we make our mark by knowing how to build an immaculately executed full canvas suit.
Look for a custom suit maker who can explain how they make their canvases and how they vary from cut to cut. If they don’t know what they’re talking about, the knowledge gap will quickly become apparent. A tailored wardrobe is a significant investment; finding the proper custom tailoring house will ensure that your money is well spent.
Written by Requisite Clothing