Anatomy of the Best SUIT

The best suits combine creativity and engineering. The art of a well-cut suit is what makes it visible from a hundred yards away, but its quality is truly visible up close. For the most part it's the small details that separate the best-constructed suits from the marginal ones. Far too often, off-the-rack and even other custom suit makers will skip or take shortcuts on these seemingly small steps. We believe that a well-made custom suit is more than the sum of its parts, as each detail interlocks with the next. Tailoring really is all about the details! And when you combine our technical tailoring knowledge with the imagination of our designers, the result is something quite rare in luxury retailers: Quality + Value. Click on each detail to explore the highlights of our craft and learn what separates Requisite from the pack.

1. Full canvas interlining with hand-rolled lapels

Canvas interlining is one of the biggest hallmarks of the best-made suits, but it's also the most invisible. It's found between the jacket's fabric and lining and is what gives the jacket its structure, shape, and body. Most suit makers skip this step and opt for a fused interlining (glued synthetic material) to save time. It may look great initially, but as time goes on the glue will break down and the jacket will start to sag and pucker. Our custom suits feature hand-cut and -basted interlining with a hand-rolled lapel measured and trimmed to your body's exact measurements. Made properly, a full canvas suit will break in with its wearer. It remains structured where it needs to be and softens and moves with its wearer as it molds its "memory" to your movement. Note of caution: Not all full canvas suits are made correctly. It is common to shortcut the basting process.

2. Hand-molded shoulders

A feature unique to the best custom tailored suits, hand-molded shoulders work alongside a full canvas basted interlining to create the crucial lines and drape of the suit. Hand- molded shoulders are nonexistent in off-the-rack suits and substituted with padding by lesser custom suit makers, but our suits feature shoulders crafted using your body as the roadmap. Our handcrafted shoulders take into account every nuance of your own shoulders, including width, slope, symmetry, rotation, musculature, and so on. This detail ensures an undeniably custom look, fit, and feel.

3. Hand pick stitching on all seams

The most easily spotted telltale sign of quality in a suit can be found in the pick stitching-a visible stitched line of thread around its edges and seams. This "imperfection" is considered the tailor's signature and a sign that the garment was made by hand. Today many will fake the process and add pick stitching on only the most noticeable parts: Lapels, breast pocket, and lower pocket flaps. Our custom suits feature pick stitching throughout the entire jacket as a standard feature (suits are also available without pick stitching by request). The detailing is painstaking and almost invisible, but unmistakable. We wouldn't have it any other way.

4. Artisan buttons, double reinforced

Composite plastic buttons ruin the look of a well-tailored suit. Our custom suits feature a selection of nut, horn, and bone buttons that are fastened by hand and double reinforced so they stay on securely. We think you will agree that the buttons' depth of color, texture, and finish make a distinct difference to the end product.

5. Functional working buttonholes on the sleeves

Also known as surgeon cuffs-aptly named, as surgeons used to have to roll up their sleeves when working-functional buttonholes are found most often on custom suits. On off-the-rack suits, it is assumed that sleeves may have to be drastically altered depending on the future customer's arm length; hence it's a bad idea to place working buttonholes on a suit's sleeves. A custom suit is made just for one person, eliminating any uncertainty about buttonhole placement, and the functioning buttonholes are a dead giveaway (we recommend you leave one or two unfastened).

6. Anchored and reinforced pockets

All our pockets-five interior and up to five exterior-are reinforced at the stress seam (the "D" top stitch) and the inner sheath anchored to the canvas. This helps protect the pockets from tearing and drooping and is a step commonly missing from most off-the- rack and custom suits.

7. Pleated, floating lining

The lining is an often-overlooked detail of a jacket. After all, who sees it but the wearer? But the way it's made makes a huge difference to the feel and drape of a suit. Poorly made lining binds and bunches. When it is sewn on tightly without enough "give," it creates puckering and unsightly lines on the jacket's exterior. Our jackets feature pleated, floating linings. Pleats allow the lining to flex and expand while minimizing pulling on the jacket's exterior. Floating means that it is sewn "lightly," with a looser tension, to allow the lining to move as if independent from the exterior, giving the wearer more range of movement and comfort.

8. Options, options, options

This is the fun of a custom made suit: millions of possible combinations. Lapel type, lapel widths, breast-pocket choices, ticket pockets, and lining colors are just some of the options you have when creating your suit. Whether you love details and want to select every accoutrement of your suit or aim to keep it simple and have your personal designer build your look, the sheer volume of options and impeccable custom fit will ensure that the end result is something uniquely you.

The best suits elegantly combine creativity and engineering. The art of a well-cut suit makes it visible from a hundred yards away, but its quality is most breathtaking when viewed up close. For the mostpart, it's the small details that separate the best-constructed suits from the marginal ones. Fartoo often, off-the-rack and even custom suit makers will skip or take shortcuts on these seemingly small steps. We believe that a well-made custom suit is more than the sum of its parts, as each detail intertwines with the next. It's been said before, but it really is true: Tailored clothing is all about the details. Click on each detail to explore the highlights of our craft and learn what separates Requisite from the pack. When you combine our technical tailoring knowledge with our designers imagination, the result is something quite rare among luxury retailers: Quality + Value.

1. The New Old-School Waistband

There is more to a pant's waistband than meets the eye. Done properly, waistbands are time- consuming to make, but their utter functionality make them a requirement. This is why we build our trousers' waistbands using old-school methods that boast a new-school twist. Whether the garment is a custom suit or a pair of custom dress slacks, its waistband features a string pleat band that moves and expands with the wearer. As the pleats open up, this piece of old- school tailoring helps keep your shirt tucked in. For redundancy (in other words, a back-up plan), we added new-school rubber grippies (yeah, we're pretty sure that word is made up). Why? Because we understand that no one likes having a shirt come untucked.

2. Triple-Button Closure

Most suit pants and dress slacks will use a combination hook-and-eye/button closure. This solution may be adequate, but in our experience hook-and-eye closures have a tendency to A) come unfastened unintentionally and B) break or fall off over time. Our trousers feature a triple button closure that helps ensure that the pants stay fastened and flat.

3. Bemberg Lining to the Knee

Soft, pliable Bemberg lining to the knee aids both comfort and aesthetics. Easily taken for granted, the lining absorbs sweat and is essential to the pants' drape.

4. Weighted Hem with Heel Guards

The beauty of a well-turned hem is that it helps keep the pants' crease stiff by using the added weight to give the pants more perceived body. This is what makes cuffing pants such a popular option. Proper etiquette dictates that flat-front pants be paired with an uncuffed plain hem. Our pants feature heel guards on both plain and cuffed hems. This easily replaced layer of fabric adds a little weight to enhance the drape and protects the pants against damage from everyday wear.

5. The Little Details

As with our suit jackets, when it comes to pants the devil is in the details. Features include the following:

  • Reinforced pockets (using the "I" and "D" stitches) with pocket sheaths anchored directly to the waistband. This finishing touch helps prevent sagging and drooping of the pockets.
  • Hand pick stitching down the leg seams to match the artisanal finish of our jackets.
  • Built-in sweat shields in the seat.
  • Reinforced seat and seams containing extra material for easy alterations.
  • Coin pockets built into the interior front pockets.
  • A lot of these minutiae may seem too trifling even to mention, but we believe that the little things make the difference between a good pair of pants and a great one.