Beyond British, Italian and American suits
The fact is just like in art, suits and clothing designs have had different movements, each with its own distinct look.
For instance, there is the Milanese movement made popular by designers like Giorgio Armani. Here the jacket follows a deconstructed feel with narrow shoulders, low and almost droopy arm eyes, complimented by relax low gore lapels and a longer jacket hem, it is an almost informal look yet contradictorily elegant at the same time. Then there is its Neapolitan cousin, favored by top suit makers like Brioni and Kiton which starts as a very constructed jacket that is cut to mirror the body of the wearer, all with out being snug or slim, It has high cut arm holes with generous sleeves. The shoulder padding is almost non existent but is capped or some times roped so that it carries a very understated Italian flair. These are both Italian philosophies of suit design and neither is “slim cut or regular”.
And so it goes, there are dozens of major design philosophies and countless hybrids, from the Cropped look favored by modern designers like Thom Browne to the good old sack suit seen on American blue blood labels such as J. Press and Brooks Brothers (both are American and both are neither Slim cut or Regular)
We take pride in studying and understanding these philosophies and translating them into your custom suit.
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